- Point/Tip: The cutting edge that starts the hole
- Flutes: Spiral grooves that remove material and debris
- Shank: The part that fits into your drill chuck
- Diameter: Measured across the cutting edge
- Material hardness and density
- Hole size and depth required
- Precision needs (rough or finished hole)
- Drill speed and feed rate
- Debris removal requirements
- Best for: Precise holes in softwood and hardwood
- Sizes: 3mm to 16mm typically
- Features: Sharp centre point prevents wandering, outer spurs score clean entry
- Applications: Dowel holes, pilot holes for screws, general woodworking
- Best for: General purpose drilling in soft to medium hardwoods
- Features: Standard 118° point angle, moderate flute angle
- Applications: Quick holes where precision isn’t critical
- Tip: Use slower speeds for hardwoods to prevent burning
- Best for: Large diameter holes (10mm-50mm) in construction timber
- Features: Flat blade with centre point, aggressive cutting action
- Applications: Running cables, plumbing holes, rough carpentry
- Speed: Use low speeds to maintain control
- Best for: Large, flat-bottomed holes with clean edges
- Sizes: 10mm to 50mm+ available
- Features: Rim cutting edge, minimal tear-out
- Applications: Hinge recesses, concealed hinges, overlapping holes
- Best for: Deep holes in timber framing
- Features: Aggressive threading, large flutes for chip removal
- Applications: Boring holes for bolts, deep pilot holes
- Note: Requires powerful drill due to aggressive cutting action
- Start with a pilot hole for large bits
- Use backing board to prevent tear-out
- Clear chips regularly on deep holes
- Reduce speed for hardwoods like oak or beech
- Best for: General metal drilling – mild steel, aluminium, brass
- Features: 135° point angle, heat-resistant steel construction
- Sizes: 1mm to 13mm commonly available
- Applications: Sheet metal work, general fabrication, maintenance
- Best for: Hard metals, stainless steel, cast iron
- Features: 5-8% cobalt content for heat resistance
- Benefits: Longer life in demanding applications
- Cost: More expensive but worth it for regular metal work
- Best for: Frequent use in various metals
- Features: TiN coating reduces friction and heat buildup
- Benefits: Extended bit life, stays sharper longer
- Applications: Production work, professional use
- Best for: Thin sheet metal, electrical boxes
- Features: Stepped design creates multiple hole sizes
- Applications: Electrical work, HVAC, automotive
- Advantage: One bit creates multiple hole sizes
- Start slowly: High speeds generate heat and dull bits quickly
- Use cutting fluid: Even light oil helps with heat dissipation
- Pilot holes: Essential for holes over 6mm diameter
- Steady pressure: Let the bit do the work, don’t force it
- Deburr holes: Use a larger bit or deburring tool to clean edges
- Mild steel: 300-1000 RPM depending on bit size
- Stainless steel: 200-600 RPM (slower due to work hardening)
- Aluminium: 1000-3000 RPM (can run faster, use cutting fluid)
- Cast iron: 200-800 RPM (brittle, needs steady feed)
- Best for: Brick, concrete block, soft stone
- Features: Hardened carbide tip brazed to steel shank
- Applications: Wall plugs, general masonry fixing
- Sizes: 4mm to 20mm for most DIY applications
- Best for: Heavy-duty concrete and masonry work
- Features: Special shank design for hammer drill chucks
- Types: SDS-Plus (up to 30mm), SDS-Max (larger diameters)
- Applications: Concrete anchors, heavy fixings, demolition work
- Best for: Very hard materials, tiles, glass
- Features: Diamond particles bonded to cutting edge
- Applications: Tile drilling, glass, very hard stone
- Technique: Use water cooling, constant light pressure
- Use hammer action: Essential for concrete and hard brick
- Start without hammer: Begin the hole, then engage hammer mode
- Clear debris: Withdraw bit regularly to clear dust
- Don’t overheat: Let the bit cool if it gets too hot
- Mark your depth: Use tape on the bit to avoid going too deep
- London stock brick: Medium hardness, standard masonry bits work well
- Engineering brick: Very hard, may need SDS bits
- Concrete block: Hollow blocks need care to avoid breakthrough
- Victorian brick: Often softer, can crumble – use steady pressure
- Best for: Ceramic tiles, porcelain, pottery
- Features: Carbide or diamond tip, spear-point design
- Technique: Start slowly, use water cooling for large holes
- Applications: Bathroom fixtures, kitchen splashbacks
- Best for: Window glass, mirrors, glass shelving
- Features: Spear-point carbide tip, gentle cutting action
- Technique: Constant light pressure, no hammer action
- Safety: Always wear safety glasses, support glass properly
- Best for: PVC, acrylic, fibreglass, composite materials
- Features: Sharp point, polished flutes to prevent melting
- Speed: Medium to high speeds work best
- Applications: Plumbing, electrical conduit, composite decking
- Best for: Mixed materials, unknown substrates
- Features: Designed to handle wood, metal, and masonry
- Applications: Renovation work, drilling through walls with mixed materials
- Limitation: Jack of all trades, master of none
Drill Bit Sizes and Standards
- UK predominantly uses metric sizes (mm)
- Some imported tools may use imperial (inches)
- Common sizes: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm
- Used mainly in engineering applications
- A-Z (larger to smaller), then 1-80 (smaller to larger)
- Most DIY work uses standard metric sizes
- Common in woodworking: 1/16″, 1/8″, 3/16″, 1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, 1/2″
- Useful for matching imported hardware
- Keep bits organized by type and size
- Protect cutting edges from damage
- Use bit cases or magnetic strips
- Avoid loose storage in toolboxes where bits can knock together
- HSS bits can be sharpened with a bench grinder
- Maintain proper angles – 118° for general use, 135° for harder materials
- Carbide bits need diamond wheels for sharpening
- Replace when worn – dull bits cause more problems than they solve
- Cutting edges are chipped or rounded
- Bits wander when starting holes
- Excessive heat generation during drilling
- Poor hole quality or rough edges
- Increased drilling time for same material
- Safety glasses – essential for all drilling
- Dust masks when drilling masonry or MDF
- Hearing protection for extended use or hammer drilling
- Gloves when handling sharp bits (not while drilling)
- Secure workpiece properly before drilling
- Check drill chuck is tight
- Select correct speed for material and bit size
- Plan exit strategy for through holes
- Stuck bits: Don’t force – reverse drill direction
- Broken bits: Use extraction tools or drill around
- Injury: Stop immediately, assess damage, seek medical attention if needed
Drill bit types explained

Drill bits look similar at a glance, but each shape and tip is engineered for a specific material and job. Getting this right matters more than the drill itself – the wrong bit will slip, overheat, blunt quickly or simply fail to cut.
Twist bits are the most common type you will encounter. Made from high-speed steel (HSS) or cobalt-blended steel, their spiral flutes clear waste material as they cut, and they handle wood, plastic and softer metals well. Cobalt versions resist heat better, which makes them the better choice for stainless steel and other tough alloys.
Masonry bits use a tungsten carbide tip to pulverise rather than slice through brick, block and concrete. They are built to survive the hammer action of an SDS or combi drill, and using a standard twist bit on masonry will blunt it almost immediately.

Spade bits have a flat, paddle-shaped blade with a centring point, designed for fast, large-diameter holes in wood – ideal for cable and pipe runs through studwork. Auger bits use a screw-tip that pulls the bit through timber, giving deeper, cleaner holes with less effort than a spade bit, which makes them a better choice for thicker sections.

Step bits are cone-shaped with staggered diameters, letting one bit drill a whole range of hole sizes in thin sheet metal without needing to swap bits constantly. Tile and glass bits use a spear-point tungsten carbide tip and should always be used at low speed, without hammer action, to avoid cracking brittle surfaces.
SDS bits are designed specifically for SDS-plus and SDS-max drills and hammer drills, with a shank that locks into the chuck and allows the hammer action to transfer directly into the bit – a standard round-shank bit cannot be used safely in an SDS drill.
Matching bit material to the job
Beyond shape, the bit's own material determines how it copes with heat and wear. Standard HSS bits are the general-purpose choice for wood, plastic and mild steel, and are the most affordable option for occasional use. Cobalt bits, blended with 5-8% cobalt, run cooler and last significantly longer in stainless steel and other hard metals – worth the extra cost if you are drilling metal regularly. Carbide-tipped and tungsten carbide bits are the toughest option, used for masonry, tile and other abrasive materials where a standard steel edge would wear away quickly.
A titanium nitride (TiN) coating is not a different bit material as such, but a surface treatment applied to HSS bits that reduces friction and heat build-up, extending working life – a sensible upgrade if you drill a wide mix of materials and want one set to cover most jobs without constantly buying replacements.
If you are building out a wider kit around your drill, our guide to choosing cordless power tools and tool chest buying guide cover how to keep bits, batteries and accessories organised between jobs. And once you have the drill sorted, our guide to angle grinder discs is a useful companion for the cutting and grinding side of the same projects.

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